It was a full house of whisky enthusiasts and explorers that settled into the Theater at the French Culinary Institute on May 14th for the tasting seminar, ‘The Art of Japanese Whisky”, sponsored by the Gohan Society and Suntory Japanese Whisky.

The group of food and beverage professionals, media, and business professionals were joined by students from the Culinary Institute in a guided tour of the history, provenance, and development of Japanese whisky.  Conducted by Hiroyoshi “Mike” Miyamoto, a Master Distiller,the opening presentation included a history of whisky-making in Japan and an insider’s look at how the Yamazaki distillery in Kyoto continues to produce its highly acclaimed series of uniquely Japanese whisky.

Miyamoto-san was joined, in his presentation by renowned chef and Gohan Society Director, Lee Anne Wong, who created four special tasting dishes, each to be paired with a different Yamazaki whisky.  Hakushu 12 Year Old was paired with ham, pear, and cheese on a toffee biscuit, Hibiki 12 Year Old with scallops,  Yamazaki 12 Year Old was paired with a lamb salad, and Yamazaki 18 Year Old with a Whisky and bay Custard, the big surprise of the day.

Each whisky was sampled by attendees while Chef Wong – cooking the dish to be paired with the whisky – and Miyamoto-san engaged in an expansive conversation about the tastes of Japanese whisky and how the special qualities of the whisky are altered when paired with food.  The dialogue – lasting over four dishes paired with four whiskies – became an open discussion among the Master Distiller, the Chef, and the audience, about how everyone tastes things differently, and, which pairings one person may prefer to a greater degree than someone else.

 As the discussion – and seminar – came to a close the audience was treated to two more surprises.  A ‘mystery whisky’ was presented – Yamazaki Sherry Cask, a single malt whisky aged in a sherry cask that is not available in the US.  The closing treat was a demonstration by Yamazaki Brand Manager Gardner Dunn discussed and demonstrated the Japanese tradition of ice-carving for cocktails.

Seminar attendees universally praised the clarity of the presentation, the quality of the whisky and food, and, marveled at the concept of pairing whisky and food in unique and satisfying ways.

It is a rare occasion when one gets to meet a hero, but such was the case when we got to see Elizabeth Andoh’s presentation – in association with Les Dames d’Escoffier NY – of her newest ebook, “Kibo: Brimming with Hope“.

Ms Andoh, generally recognized as one of the foremost authorities on Japanese food, undertook a project to identify and promote the heretofore obscure indigenous food culture of Tohoku, the region of Japan devastated a year ago by tsunami and earthquakes.

Following the horrific events of March 11, 2011, Ms Andoh found herself asking, ‘What can someone who writes cookbooks do?‘  The answer she came up with was to create a cookbook and cultural narrative exploring the Tohoku region.  Prior to the disaster, she say, ‘shockingly little’ was known, in Japan, about Tohoku cuisine.  The result, targeted to be available by the first anniversary of the disaster, is ‘Kibo: Brimming with Hope’  a collection of recipes, regional takes on Japanese cuisine, and stories of the lives and culture of the people of Tohoku.

Ms Andoh spoke easily and elegantly about the terroir of the Tohoku region and it’s impact on the food culture of the area.  She was more than ably accompanied by Mr. Timothy Sullivan of Urbansake.com, who spoke of the sake of Tohoku with equal grace and appreciation.  He presented sake from three Tohoku breweries and spoke, very directly, of each brewery’s experience at the time of and since the earthquake.

Ms. Andoh expressed deep concern about degree of devastation to the land and culture of Tohoku, noting that ‘a culture under stress can lead to the disappearance of an entire food culture’ and ‘a population evacuated is a threat to that food culture.’  Her book, and her work, become not just vehicles for recovery, but, for actual preservation of the threatened food culture of Tohoku.

She brings to the mission a quiet and gentle intensity that is no less fierce for it’s humility. Ms Andoh, whose living relationship with Japan began fifty years ago is not ethnically.  As deep as her relationship with Japan and Japanese food is, it may well be that slim ‘outsider’ factor that allows her such deep insight into and empathy with Tohoku food culture.   She has a background in the study of anthropology, which, clearly feeds her curiosity and cultural observations.  It is hard to imagine that there could be anyone else on the face of the earth more prepared and better qualified to undertake this special mission.

The evening was full of small surprises (dried chrysanthemum flowers), bold tastes (shiso maki), and lively surprises (ika ninjin- a rich blend of squid jerky and carrot strips).

Most of all, it was an evening spent learning about and honoring the Tohoku region – an area about which we have heard so much and known so little – through it’s food culture.

Mr. Sullivan often refers to Ms Andoh as Andoh-sensei.  She is truly a teacher, a leader, and, still, after all the expectations, a hero.

On March 1, 2012, under the auspices of the Gohan Society, Chef Atsushi Kono of NYC’s famed yakitori restaurant, Tori Shin, conducted a lecture demonstration before 30 students of the High School of Food and Finance, the only NYC public high school to teach culinary arts to all students.

Five students each from six classes were specifically chosen to participate in the special class, held in the school’s teaching kitchen.  They were chosen for their academic and culinary skills, commitment to their studies, and excellence in attendance and attitude.   The students were led by instructing chef  Dinella Ascenso-Ayala, known to all as ‘Chef Dee’.

Chef Kono gave a brief description of his culinary education and career and discussed the place of yakitori in the pantheon of Japanese cuisine.  He also talked about key elements of yakitori – the quality of ingredients, the fire, the charcoal, the skewers, and the tare - the unique sauce that is brushed on the food in the final stages of cooking.

The Chef’s began the demonstration by showing how he cuts a whole chicken, rendering the maximum yield for yakitori.

Two fearless students then joined the demonstration, displaying their knife skills and taking direction from Chef Kono.

As the lesson progressed, every student was presented with the opportunity to engage in every aspect of preparing yakitori.  Students gathered to cut chicken into specific parts, yielding the numerous varieties of menu items found in a yakitori menu.

They skewered like items together and worked the konro,  a Japanese grill, burning binchotan, the Japanese low-smoke, high-heat charcoal.  Students at the konro were guided by Chef Kono’s able assistant, Chef Suzuki.

Throughout the 90 minute session students were fully engaged in the process of learning yakitori.  Although the demonstration took place over two class periods, a number of students stayed through their lunch period to continue cutting, skewering and grilling.

Although students at the High School of Food and Finance are actively studying culinary arts each and every school day, for many students, this was their first hands-on experience cooking Japanese food.

Chef Kono, the HSFF administrators and teachers, and the students, especially, were unanimous in their praise and appreciation of this unique learning experience.

The imminent closing of Matsuri restaurant in the Maritime Hotel has given us reason to pause and consider.

We pause and linger over memories of great meals shared with friends and family at Matsuri.

We consider the person behind it all – Chef Tasdahi Ono.

Born in Japan, he first appeared on our culinary radar during a stint as chef at Manhattan’s  La Caravelle restaurant,  the famed temple of French cuisine.  He was there when it closed, but, his position at La Caravelle links him directly to the origins of fine European and Continental dining in New York City.

From La Caravelle, he became a chef-partner at Sono, from 1999 through 2001, blending Japanese and European ingredients and techniques in a way that was, at it’s time, unique in the City.

In 2003, he opened Matsuri, a spacious yet warm space that was filled to capacity, night after night.  When Chef Ono opened Matsuri, there was no Morimoto in NYC and the Meat Market area was considered a rough destination for only the most daring of nighthawks.  Would that WonderWorld of high end boutiques, fine dining, and hotels be what it has become if someone had not opened a major destination restaurant in 2003?  Probably not.

We pause and consider.  Tadashi Ono.  Chef.  Cookbook author.  Master ceramicist.  Warm, generous, innovative and mindful of tradition.

Hail!  … and Farewell…

We await the next chapter…

On a mild, late winter evening, about forty adventurous diners gathered in a downstairs dining room at the wildly popular Red Rooster Harlem.  While early evening crowds began to gather around the bar and main dining room, upstairs, this diverse, subterranean group of interested eaters prepared for a special dinner, pairing Red Rooster Harlem’s unique, contemporary take on classic American Southern and soul food with sake from Japan’s northern prefecture of Akita.

Introduced by Tamio Spiegel, Executive Director of the Gohan Society, the evening’s hosts were Nils Noren, chef and manager for the Samuelsson Group , which owns Red Rooster Harlem, and Linda Noel Kawabata, Certified Sake Specialist and Brand Manager for the ASPEC Sake consortium, whose sake provided the perfect complement to the six-course meal.

Chef Noren greeted the guests and spoke of the Rooster’s focus on the legacy of the Harlem’s multi-cultural cuisine, including American Southern, African, Caribbean, and Asian – all reflected in dishes he selected for the evening’s meal.

Kawabata-san spoke of her excitement at the opportunity to present sake outside of the context of a Japanese meal and how pairing the meal with sake from the five brewers who compose the ASPEC consortium would emphasize the sometimes subtle differences among  a variety of sake from a single region.

As Kawabata-san introduced each sake, guests were treated to comments and information provided by representatives of two of the breweries whose sake was served.  In attendance were Mr. Hitoshi Ohi, Managing Director of Tenju Shuzo Co., maker of the Chokkaisan sake, which was served as an aperitif and Ms. Tomoko Sasaki, Manager of Akita Seishu Company , whose Dewatsuru sake accompanied the meal’s first two courses.

As diners enjoyed the dishes from Red Rooster’s new Downstairs menu, sake from the additional three ASPEC breweries flowed freely.   A special drop-in visit from Chef Marcus Samuelsson provided additional warmth and camaraderie.  By evening’s end, great food was consumed, a new appreciation of sake’s ability to complement non-Japanese food was experienced, and new friends were made.

Our cross-cultural pairing dinner will combine 6 dynamic dishes from Red Rooster Harlem with carefully-selected ASPEC Sakes from the Akita Prefecture of Japan.  It is our hope that dining experiences such as these display the versatility of Japanese Sake when combined with interesting and uniques cuisines from across the world.

“Sake Comes To Harlem” will take place on Tuesday, March 6th at 6:30 PM.  Tickets are available and can be purchased by visiting our Eventbrite Page Here.

Red Rooster Harlem Tasting Menu

Fried Chicken Broth w/Collard Green Toast

Ye’s Rice Porridge with Crab, Ginger,
and Downstairs Oyster Sauce

Rig ‘n’ Cheese
with Shrimp and Parsley

Octopus and Pork Belly
with Cucumber and Rooster Hot Sauce

Chicken and Waffles

Chocolate Cake with Red Velvet Ice Cream

ASPEC Sake From Akita Prefecture

Akita Seishu Brewery
Dewatsuru Sake

Hinomaru Jozo Brewery
Manabito Sake

Tenju Shuzo Brewery
Chokaisan Sake

Suzuki Shuzouten Brewery
Hideyoshi Sake

Naba Shoten Brewery
Minato Harbor Sake